Eating There: Tourists and the Spanish Jamón
When I arrived to Madrid in the summer of June 2020 I was hungry. Being the capital of Spain, there are a lot of landmark eateries, like Cerveceria Alemana, an old bar where Ernerst Hemmigway sipped tempranillo and wrote Death in the Afternoon, a tribute to Spanish Bullfighting. It was important to me to visit historical spots, participate in the city’s culture, and eat like a Madrileno. My goal was to do all of this and still hold myself accountable to my sustainable travel plan.
For many tourists, eating their way through a country is the best way to discover it. In Spain, the gastronomy represents the Mediterranean through leafy greens, dried fruits, and cheeses and yogurts, and the local through red meat, more specifically Iberian ham, a beloved food that dates back centuries. Jamón is a cultural symbol in addition to a massive driver of the Spanish economy and tourism. It is no surprise that the country currently ranks number 1 in European meat consumption.
Recent pressures from other EU countries, to limit meat consumption as a means to cut greenhouse gas emissions and improve the health of Europeans, is giving rise to heated political and social debates about the amount of meat produced and consumed in Spain. A country’s cuisine shares stories about its history, land, and its people, but excessive consumption, masked by links to cultural traditions and lifestyle choices, feeds unsustainable eating habits and contributes to gross planet and human problems, namely climate change. Travelers that hunger for a taste of authenticity but want to maintain good eating habits throughout their journey are tasked with finding a balance between enjoying a new country’s gastronomy and making sustainable food choices. Although the task seems difficult, it is not impossible, and a slow traveler's approach could be helpful at making eating decisions.
Today in Spain, red meat consumption is one of the highest in the European Union. According to the Food and Agriculture Association, Spain consumes 98 kilos of meat per person a year, and produces more than 7.8 million tonnes of meat annually. At the same time, the livestock and meat industry contributes roughly 9,000 million euros in exports and 2.5 million jobs according to the FAO, undoubtedly making meat a top economic contributor for Spain. However, efforts to reduce carne consumption as it relates to health and environmental risks became political, and many Spanish politicians denounced the idea as unpatriotic.
In response to a recent campaign titled “less meat more life,” Spanish Health Minister Alberto Garzon urges Spaniards to reevaluate their meat consumption and think about the role red meat has on their health and planet. Spanish Prime Minister Pedro Sánchez noted in response to the campaign, “Donde me pongan un chuletón al punto, eso es imbatible” which translates to “a steak done right, that is unbeatable for me.” Beyond political pushback, there are great historical and cultural narratives that persist in Spanish society that tie meat consumption to the country's identity and therefore make it very challenging to adopt sustainable eating habits.
Historically, meat has always been a part of Spaniards' diet. In fact it was the Spanish who brought cows, pigs, and sheep over to the Americas in an effort to colonize agriculture to support their carnivorous cravings. Spain also used meat as a weapon in religious warfare. “Piernas de cerdo” or “pig legs” were sold abundantly in markets. Those who didn’t purchase meat were presumed muslim, and were either killed or enslaved under the Spanish-Christian empire. Today, piernas de cerdo can be seen in almost all “carnicerias'', butcher shops, across the country. They hang from the ceilings and are showcased in restaurants and bar windows; a timeline of history waiting to be eaten.
I’ve lived on the iberian peninsula for two years now and it’s quite common to order an “embutido'', or meat plate, alongside a cold beer or glass of red wine. Jamón’s accessibility and generally low price makes it a favorable tapa, a common appetizer. I have gathered with friends around meat spreads and cheeses and attended family functions where ham is served alongside “pan y tomate”, bread and tomato, before the main plate. When I visited the capital this summer, it felt as if the supply of meat was never ending; jamon iberico and chorizo were served to nearly every table. A chain restaurant in central Madrid, El Museo Del Jamón, offers low prices and big quantities for embutidos. I now wonder how El Museo Del Jamon, along with many other restaurants and bars across Spain, are able to provide what feels like unlimited amounts of pork?
There are more than 80,000 pig farms in Spain that operate at an industrial level. As of 2016 there were a total of 29.2 million pigs in the country. In the past twenty years pig farms have declined dramatically, but the number of pigs concentrated on a single farm have skyrocketed. In 2017 alone 50 million pigs were slaughtered. This number is greater than Spain’s total human population which is roughly 46.5 million. The market for pigs is moving away from family farms to an industry dominated by a handful of companies. Local economies are in jeopardy, and animal welfare, health risks, and climate change are all linked to factory farming.
It is clear that factory farming contributes to climate change. Environmental activists groups like Greenpeace Spain claim that factory farming is causing serious water contamination from runoff that is making drinking water unsafe for nearby populations. The agricultural sector in Spain alone is responsible for 67% of direct greenhouse gas emissions caused by livestock. Forests are cleared to house industrial farms that turn lively landscapes into dreadfully barren land. Animals are raised in one place, but livestock feed travels thousands of miles to their mouths. The world’s carbon sinks are cleared to cultivate livestock feed. A report from the Union of Concerned Scientists found that 70%-75% of soybean crops planted in the Amazon are exported to feed pigs, cows and chickens around the world. Globally, the livestock sector is responsible for a quarter of greenhouse gases.
Despite the undeniable preference for red meat, Spain is still considered to have one of the healthiest diets. It’s geographical placement makes it rich in legumes, vegetables, nuts, fish, and olive oil. In 2010, UNESCO named the Mediterranean diet an Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity. More recently in 2019, Spain was awarded the healthiest country according to the Bloomberg Healthiest Country Index, a report that ranks 169 economies according to factors that contribute to overall health. Veganism and vegetarianism have both increased among Spaniards in recent years; about 0.1% of the population considers themselves vegan. While this number seems small, it represents the tenth highest percentage of vegans on a world scale. These recognitions have not only been used to educate people about the historical and cultural importance of the Spanish diet, but serve as paths to mitigate climate change.
Does eating meat have to be exclusive when we are talking about sustainable eating habits? Conscious travelers and slow eaters alike might find this question difficult to answer because food is such an integral part to understanding a new place. In the context of food, seeking out sustainable food choices during a trip can lead to discoveries of new tastes and plates that can change the course of your eating habits for the long run. To eat like a local is a sure way to make meaningful experiences, contribute to local economies, and consciously make a sustainable food choice.
It’s easy to get overwhelmed about the state of the world’s food capacity, quality, and if what you’re eating is considered an environmentally sound choice. Our world’s agriculture industry and its relationship with climate change is a big, complicated, and multifaceted problem that requires work from all stakeholders. Turning our attention to the individual impact and understanding how our own diets contribute to climate change can at least encourage sustainable actions at home and outside of the comfort of our own environments. Tracking your footprint is a good start. Not being so hard on yourself about food choices is also important, as long as we’re striving towards a sustainable shift. After all, to eat is to live, and food is a window into meaningful experiences and discoveries.
Eating Tips for conscious travelers and slow eaters:
Limit eating at restaurants to once a day by buying bread, fruit, and other whole foods at a grocery store and packing your lunch.
Stay at a hostel or accommodation that has a kitchen so you can cook meals and meal prep for day activities and not be forced to eat out.
Do your research on the gastronomy of your host country. When you decide to eat at a restaurant, review its menu, prices, and customer reviews beforehand. Make sure it’s worth your money and aligns with your eating habits and sustainability goals.
Buy local products! Honey, wine, meats, cheese, and other milk products are abundant in Spain’s local economy. Do your research and seek out family owned farms, and locally marked products.
Take a cooking class that specializes in the local cuisine and uses local products.
Visit a local farm and winery and buy products directly from the vendor.
